Los Antiguos is the improbable orchard of Patagonia. The town of about two thousand people sits on the south shore of Lago Buenos Aires, a huge, wind-chopped lake that the Chileans call General Carrera, and the microclimate here, sheltered by the surrounding mountains and warmed by the water, allows cherries, apricots and berries to ripen where the rest of the province is bare steppe. Every January the town celebrates the cherry harvest with a festival, and in summer, fruit stalls line the roadside. The name means the ancient ones, a reference to the Tehuelche people who once lived and hunted here.
The ride from Perito Moreno town is a short, wide, easy run of about fifty kilometres on paved road, across empty steppe before the lake appears as a thin blue line and the road drops toward the water. Wind is the main factor, and it can be ferocious across the open plain, so keep your grip firm. The bends are few and gentle, the surface good, and the traffic light. As you approach the town, the colour changes dramatically, with lines of poplars, green fields and the first shade you have seen for a long way.
Fuel, shops, a handful of hotels and several good cafes are all available, and the town is a pleasant place to rest. Try the local jams, dried fruit and fresh cherries in season, and the lamb and beef grilled the Patagonian way. Chile Chico, on the Chilean side of the lake, lies just over seven kilometres away, and the border crossing between the two towns is a minor one, though you will need your documents and the paperwork for your motorcycle. Check the opening hours before you go.
The lake itself is one of the largest in South America, shared between Argentina and Chile, and its colour shifts from deep blue to milky green depending on the light. In the evening, when the wind drops, the mountains on the far side glow pink and the surface turns to glass. Walk down to the shore, take off your gloves and dip a hand in the cold water. After days of steppe and gravel, this green corner of the map is a very welcome surprise.