Pasto sits at the foot of Galeras, an active volcano of more than 4,200 metres that has rumbled and smoked on and off for centuries, and the farm country around it lies in the shadow of that mountain. Los Ajos is a rural spot in this southern Colombian highland, in the department of Nariño, a few kilometres from the small towns of Yacuanquer and Tangua.
Riding in Nariño is cool, high and sometimes wet. The roads climb through the Andes in tight bends, with fog patches and surprise stretches of broken asphalt, and mornings tend to be the clearest. Altitude is substantial, so bring a warm jacket and a waterproof layer even in the dry months of July and August. Heavy trucks use the main roads between Pasto and the Ecuadorian border, so overtaking needs patience, and landslides after rain can close sections, so check road conditions before you go.
Pasto, a city of nearly four hundred thousand people about twelve kilometres away, is where you buy fuel, supplies and a proper meal. It is known for a remarkable carnival, held in early January, the Carnival of Blacks and Whites, which UNESCO recognises as intangible heritage, and for a decorative craft in which artisans cover wood with resin from a local plant to produce brightly coloured designs. In the restaurants look for cuy, roast guinea pig, which is a highland tradition and a matter of local pride.
Further south the road runs on toward Ipiales, with its neo-Gothic church built across a river canyon, the Las Lajas sanctuary, which is among the most striking pilgrimage sites in South America. Even if you do not make the detour, the sight of the volcano on a clear morning, lit pink and white above the farms, is worth the early start.