In the monsoon, Lohagad disappears into the clouds and reappears, drenched and green, with waterfalls pouring off every ledge. This hill fort stands on a ridge of the Western Ghats a short distance from Lonavla, between Mumbai and Pune, and its walls and gateways crown a basalt plateau a few hundred metres above the surrounding valleys. Its name means iron fort, and it is one of the forts associated with the Maratha ruler Chhatrapati Shivaji, which in 2025 were grouped together on the UNESCO list as the Maratha Military Landscapes.
The fort has a long history, changing hands between the Marathas and the Mughals more than once in the seventeenth century. Climbing through its four great gates, each set higher than the last, you can see how hard it would have been to take by force. On the western side the ridge runs out into a narrow spur called Vinchu Kata, the scorpion's tail, with sheer drops on both sides. Nearby, the Buddhist rock-cut caves at Bhaja and Karla, carved around two thousand years ago, are well worth a stop for their pillared halls and stupas.
Getting there is a ride through Maharashtra's hills. The old Mumbai–Pune highway climbs through the Khandala ghat in a series of bends, with trucks, buses and monkeys sharing the road; note that two-wheelers are not allowed on the Mumbai–Pune Expressway. From Lonavla, a narrow road leads to the village of Lohagadwadi at the foot of the fort, from where you climb on foot, up steps that are slippery in the rains. The monsoon months of June to September are glorious but wet and crowded at weekends, and the cooler, drier months from November to February are the most comfortable.
Lonavla has plenty of fuel, food and accommodation, and it is famous for chikki, a crunchy sweet of jaggery and peanuts, sold in countless shops. Stalls at the base of the fort serve hot tea, vada pav and pakoras, perfect after a soaking climb. Carry water, watch your step on the wet stone and keep a careful eye on bags and snacks, because the monkeys here are bold and quick.