North of the Arctic Circle the road to Lofoten starts to feel like the end of the world. This part of Nordland and Vesterålen is a land of fjords, long islands and steep, sharp mountains rising straight out of the sea, with low sun and big weather. The nearest places of any size are Melbu, Stokmarknes and Sortland, small towns on the islands of Hadsel and Langøya, and each has a garage, a supermarket and somewhere to eat. Fuel is thin on the ground farther out, so top up here.
Stokmarknes has a place in coastal history, because it was from here that the first Hurtigruten steamer set out in 1893, on a coastal route that was the start of the famous coastal express. The ship was run by Richard With, a local skipper, and the line proved that the dangerous northern sea route could be sailed in winter. A small museum in town tells the story. The coastal steamers still serve these communities today, and passing ships are a familiar sight.
The riding is the main draw. The E10 and the connecting roads wind along the shores of the fjords, across long bridges and through tunnels, with sharp peaks above and the sea on the other side. Surfaces are generally excellent, and traffic is light, though lorries and campervans are common in summer. Wind can be strong on the bridges, and the weather swings between sun, rain and low cloud in an hour. Speed limits are low and strictly enforced, and the fines in Norway are steep.
In summer, the midnight sun shines here from about late May to mid-July, so the light is endless and golden, and a ride at midnight is an unforgettable experience. In winter, the northern lights dance, though the roads can be icy. The smell is of sea, pine and drying fish. Stockfish, cod hung on wooden racks to dry in the cold wind, is the local product, exported for centuries to Italy. Wear warm layers, even in July, because the evening can be chilly.