Lochcarron stretches itself along the north shore of the sea loch of the same name, a single long village that seems to have decided one street was enough. The houses face the water, the hills of Wester Ross rise behind them, and when the tide is out the shore smells of weed and salt. It is the main settlement for a wide area of the north-west Highlands, so even though the population is only a couple of thousand at most, it has what remote places lack: a village shop, a few places to eat, a post office and, as a rule, a pump for fuel. Do check the hours, though, because the Highlands do not run to city timetables, and a Sunday can be quiet.
The road in is the A890 from Strathcarron, which carries you along the loch and then the A896 beyond toward Kishorn and Applecross. This is single-track in places, with passing places that demand a certain etiquette: pull in on the left, or opposite the oncoming vehicle, and wave. Surfaces are patched, the verges can be soft, and sheep, deer and the occasional cow treat the tarmac as their own. The pay-off is the scenery, with water on one side and bare mountain on the other. Come on a clear morning and the light on the loch is memorable, and come on a wet day and the hills wear their cloud like a hat.
Further on, the famous climb over the Bealach na Bà, the Pass of the Cattle, goes up to Applecross, and is Britain's steepest road climb, with hairpins and gradients that make you concentrate. It rises to about 626 metres, and it is closed in snow, and caravans and large vehicles are advised not to attempt it. Lochcarron is the sensible place to fill up and eat before you commit, since there is nothing at the top but a view and a very good wind.
Locally, the village is known for Lochcarron of Scotland, the tartan weavers, though their mill is now in the Borders. The loch has seals and, in places, otters, and the castle ruins at Strome, a few kilometres on, stand on a point of land at the narrows. Midges can be fierce between June and August, particularly at dusk and on still days, and a repellent is more use than any amount of courage. Spring and early autumn are gentler, with clear air and fewer visitors on the road.
Kyle of Lochalsh and Plockton lie a little way south, with more services and the island of Skye just beyond.