Llao Llao is the best-known spot on the Circuito Chico, the short scenic loop that runs west from Bariloche along the shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi. The name comes from a Mapuche word for a type of edible fungus that grows on the southern beech trees, and it has since been taken by a famous hotel, whose pitched roofs and stone tower stand on a green headland above the water. Built in the 1930s in an Alpine style, the hotel has hosted presidents and film stars, and its setting, between two lakes and ringed by mountains, is as dramatic as the architecture is quaint.
The ride from Bariloche takes you along the lake shore on a paved road that curves through forest, past small beaches and viewpoints, with the water glittering blue on one side and dark hills on the other. The road is narrow and busy in high season, with buses, cars and cyclists sharing space, so ride patiently and keep an eye out for blind bends. Early morning is the best time, when the light is soft and the road is quiet. The loop is short, about sixty kilometres in all, so it is easy to fit in half a day, with stops for views, a chapel, and perhaps a chocolate.
Bariloche, about twenty-two kilometres away, has fuel, workshops and every service you could want, so there is no need to stock up here. Llao Llao itself has a few cafes and a short walk to the lakeside, while the Capilla San Eduardo, a small wooden chapel, makes a good photograph. Be aware that prices in the area are high, and that it gets very crowded in summer and winter holidays. Spring and autumn offer the best combination of light and quiet.
The region is part of the Nahuel Huapi National Park, the oldest in Argentina, created from land donated to the nation by the explorer Francisco Moreno, whose title of Perito, meaning expert, became part of his name. The forest is a mix of southern beech, cypress and bamboo-like cane, and the air smells of wet bark and resin. In autumn, the leaves of the lenga and ñire trees turn red and gold, and the snow on the peaks stays well into summer. It is a landscape you can enjoy slowly, and it rewards a leisurely lap.