The Llanganuco lakes are two glacial lakes at about 3,850 metres, in a deep, U-shaped valley below the great peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, and their colour is out of this world. The lower lake, Chinancocha, is a deep turquoise, and the upper one, Orconcocha, is a darker green, and both shine with a milky intensity that comes from finely ground rock suspended in the glacier-fed water. Steep slopes of rock and polylepis forest, a tough, twisted tree that grows higher than any other in the world, rise on either side, and the snowy summits of Huandoy and Pisco crown the valley. The names come from Quechua: Chinancocha is the female lake, and Orconcocha the male.
The valley is part of Huascarán National Park, and it is a place of extraordinary beauty. Mist rises from the water in the morning, the wind ruffles the surface, and in the afternoon the light turns the glaciers pink and gold. Andean birds live here, and with luck you may see a vizcacha, a rabbit-like rodent, sitting on a rock. Rangers collect a small entrance fee at the gate, and you should carry cash.
The road from Yungay is gravel for much of its length, climbing steadily from the valley, with bends, bumps and a few steep sections. It is a rough, dusty ride, but the surface is not too difficult, and the gradient is gentle compared with the road above the lakes. Rain can make it slippery, and landslides sometimes block it, so check conditions. Because the lakes lie at nearly 3,900 metres, the air is thin, and a rider coming from the coast may feel breathless. Take it slowly, rest, and drink water, ideally after a few days of getting used to the height.
Fuel is available in Yungay, about thirteen kilometres away, and Caraz and Huaraz have more. Boats are sometimes available to take visitors out on the water. Cold wind comes off the glaciers, so bring a windproof layer, a hat and gloves. Go early, before the clouds gather, and take the time to walk to the shore, where the water laps against the stones and the quiet comes down around you.