Ljubljana is a small capital with a big sense of itself, and it sits in a basin ringed by hills, with a castle on a steep wooded rise at the centre. The old town huddles beneath it along the green Ljubljanica River, which bends through the middle, and cafe terraces cover the banks. Dragons are the city's symbol, appearing on the Dragon Bridge, a green-copper and concrete span of 1901, and on the coat of arms, and they are said to derive from the legend of Jason and the Argonauts, who supposedly founded the city after killing a dragon in the marsh. The tale is a charming fiction. In reality, the Romans founded Emona here, and the Habsburgs later ran the town as the capital of Carniola.
In 2016, Ljubljana was named European Green Capital, and the centre has been largely closed to cars, with pleasant walks, cycle lanes and a spread of parks. The Tivoli park, on the edge of the centre, is a large green space with avenues and a mansion. Funicular and path lead up to the castle, where a view of the town and the Alps awaits on a clear day. The Central Market, with fruit, cheese and honey, is the best place for breakfast.
For a motorcyclist, the city is a gateway to the Julian Alps, and the day's route leads northwest to the Idrijska Bela valley, where a great barrier of stone blocks was built to hold back torrent water and debris. The Slovenian mountains have a long tradition of such works. Roads in the region are good, with sinuous curves, small villages and glimpses of high peaks. Be mindful of speed cameras, which are frequent, and fines can be heavy. A vignette is required on the motorways, and the Slovenian one is sold at petrol stations and online.
Fuel is plentiful on the ring road and the motorways, and food is good. Try the Carniolan sausage, buckwheat porridge called ajdovi žganci and the cream cake of Bled, if you detour north. The best months for riding are May to September. Alpine passes close in winter.