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Litzelstetten-Krähenhorn 32

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The Bodanrueck is a wooded peninsula that sticks out into the western end of Lake Constance, between the Uberlinger See and the Zeller See, and Litzelstetten is a small village on its southern side, close to the city of Konstanz. The Krahenhorn is a little promontory on the shore, and the whole area is an easy, gentle mix of orchards, forest, reeds and quiet beaches. Mainau Island, the flower island, lies just off the coast, with its palm trees and rhododendrons.

The site is another of the prehistoric pile dwelling settlements around the Alps that UNESCO listed in 2011. The shallow water at the edge of Lake Constance was a good place to live five thousand years ago, with fish, reeds and fertile soil, and villages of timber houses stood on stilts at the shore. On the German side of the lake the story is told at the open-air pile dwelling museum at Unteruhldingen, where reconstructed houses give a lively picture of Stone Age and Bronze Age life. At Litzelstetten itself, the remains lie beneath the water.

For a rider, the area is a pleasure. The roads around the peninsula wind through woods and farmland, with the lake appearing between the trees. They are narrow and not fast, and cyclists use them in numbers in summer, so patience is needed. Further west, the road to Uberlingen follows the shore, through small towns and vineyards, and the old town of Uberlingen has a lakeside promenade, a Gothic minster and a good choice of cafes. The city has fuel and shops, and Uhldingen-Muhlhofen, a bigger village, is another possibility.

Take the ferry from Meersburg to Konstanz if you want a change of pace. The crossing takes about fifteen minutes, and the view of the Alps across the lake is lovely on a clear day. Weather can be changeable, with sudden fog and cool winds off the water, but autumn often brings warm sun and soft light. Eat fresh whitefish, called Felchen, from the lake, and drink the local Muller-Thurgau. A swim in the clear lake is a fine way to end the ride.

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