On the French shore of Lake Geneva, just across the border from Switzerland, the village of Chens-sur-Léman sits among fields and woods above the water. Along its shoreline, at places such as Tougues and Les Grèves, the remains of prehistoric pile dwellings lie in the shallow water, and they are part of the Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps World Heritage site. On calm days, when the water is clear and low, it is sometimes possible to see the stumps of ancient wooden piles sticking out of the lakebed, a quiet reminder of the people who lived here thousands of years ago.
This stretch of the lake, in the Chablais region of Haute-Savoie, is quieter than the Swiss shore opposite, with small villages, beaches and harbours. A short ride east, Yvoire is a medieval walled village on a point jutting into the lake, with stone houses covered in flowers, a castle and a famous garden. It is one of the most visited villages in France, and in summer it can be crowded, but early in the morning it is lovely. To the west, the Swiss village of Hermance marks the border, with its own old centre and harbour.
The lake itself is a constant presence, changing colour with the weather and the time of day, from deep blue to grey to silver. On clear days, the Jura mountains stand out on the far shore, and to the south the Alps rise above the hills. Sailing boats, paddle steamers and swimmers share the water in summer.
The riding along the lakeshore is pleasant but often busy, with traffic heading between Geneva and Thonon-les-Bains. The minor roads inland are quieter, through farmland and woods, with gentle bends. For more challenging riding, the mountains are close: the Chablais Alps, with passes and winding roads towards Morzine and Avoriaz, or the Salève, a long ridge south of Geneva with a road along its crest and views over the city and the lake.
Douvaine, a few kilometres inland, has fuel, supermarkets and restaurants. Try fish from the lake, such as perch or féra, a local whitefish, often served with fries. Summer is warm and sunny, with occasional storms; winter is cold, with fog over the lake. Spring and autumn are lovely, with fewer crowds.