Staten Island is the quiet borough, the one that New Yorkers from the other four tend to forget, and the stretch of shoreline near New Dorp Beach shows its slower side. Low houses sit behind a seawall, a long beach faces out across Lower New York Bay, and on a clear day the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge hangs in the distance. The island has the largest areas of woodland and marsh in the city, with a greenbelt of hills and ponds in its middle, and the pace in parts feels almost suburban.
A few minutes away, the New Dorp Lighthouse stands above the bluff, a Victorian tower, and Great Kills Park, a part of the Gateway National Recreation Area, has beaches, trails and a marina. Fort Wadsworth, at the Narrows, is one of the oldest military posts in the country, with views of the bridge and the ships. The Alice Austen House, a Victorian cottage on the shore, preserves the home of a pioneering photographer of the late nineteenth century. Many visitors arrive by the free Staten Island Ferry, which gives a good view of the harbour and the Statue of Liberty.
The Litchfield Hills of Connecticut, named on the label, lie far to the north, and the ride begins by getting off the island. The Verrazzano Bridge takes you across to Brooklyn, with the toll collected only on the way into the island, while the other bridges lead into New Jersey and charge for the crossing. The roads on the island itself are flat and ordinary, with a few hills near the centre, and traffic jams are common at the bridges at peak times. Look out for potholes and trolley tracks in older streets.
Fuel stations and food are plentiful, and New Dorp Beach has about six thousand people. For a good bite, Staten Island has a surprising number of old pizzerias and Sri Lankan restaurants near the ferry terminal. Early summer mornings are quiet, with soft light over the bay, and autumn is crisp. Winter storms can bring flooding to the shorefront.