Here the lake country gives way to northern Southland, a region of broad river flats, low mountains and farms that stretch to the horizon.
The Mataura has a reputation among fishermen that reaches well beyond New Zealand. Its brown trout are large, wary and rewarding, and the season draws fly fishers from around the world, who stay in small lodges and farmhouses. Beyond the river, the hills are covered in tussock and merino sheep, and in places the land is crossed by old stone walls built by early settlers. The air is dry and clean, and in autumn the poplars along the river turn the colour of butter.
Kingston, a small township at the southern tip of Lake Wakatipu, is the nearest settlement. It was an important gateway in the gold rush and later became the terminus of a railway that took visitors to the lake steamers. The Kingston Flyer, a heritage steam train, ran on that line for many years. Today the town is quiet, with a few shops and a view over the water to the Remarkables.
The ride's name refers to the Lindis Pass, a very different landscape to the north-east, but the riding here has its own charm. The roads through Southland are generally straight and fast, with long views and occasional bends where they cross rivers and ridges. Traffic is light, with farm vehicles, trucks and the occasional campervan. Wind can be strong, and frost can lie on the road in the early morning. Look out for sheep and cattle crossing, since stock are moved along the road in places.
Fuel can be hard to find. Kingston has limited services, and the sensible plan is to fill up in Queenstown or Te Anau, where stations are reliable. Cafes in the small towns often close early, so pack a lunch. The nearest large town to the south is Invercargill, a long ride away.
Go in the afternoon, when the light is warm and the hills glow. Stop by the river for a few minutes and watch the water.