Of all the palaces King Ludwig II of Bavaria dreamed up, Linderhof is the only one he saw finished, and it is the one he actually lived in for long periods. Hidden in the Graswang valley in the Ammergau Alps, it is a small, extravagant rococo villa inspired by Versailles, with gilded rooms, a hall of mirrors and a dining table that rose from the kitchen below so that the shy king could eat without seeing servants. The park around it is full of follies: a Moorish kiosk, a Moroccan house and, most famous of all, the Venus Grotto, an artificial cave with a lake, a shell-shaped boat and coloured lighting, built so Ludwig could imagine himself in a Wagner opera. Linderhof belongs to the group of Ludwig's palaces recently listed by UNESCO.
The valley is narrow and wooded, with mountains rising steeply on both sides. Ettal, a few kilometres east, has a huge baroque Benedictine monastery whose monks brew beer and make a herbal liqueur. Oberammergau, beyond, is famous for its passion play, performed by the villagers every ten years since the seventeenth century, when they vowed to do so if spared from the plague, and for its painted houses and woodcarvers.
The riding is superb. The road from Ettal through the Graswang valley past Linderhof continues over the border into Austria, past the Ammerwald and down to the Plansee, a stunning lake of turquoise water surrounded by mountains, and on to Reutte. It is one of the classic rides of the Bavarian Alps, with curves, forests and views, but it is popular, and on summer weekends it is busy with cars, motorcycles and cyclists. Police controls are frequent, and noise is a sensitive topic in these valleys, so ride sensibly. In winter, snow can make the road difficult.
Oberammergau, eight kilometres away, covers fuel, food and a bed for the night. Bavarian food is hearty: roast pork with dumplings, Weisswurst for breakfast, pretzels and beer in a beer garden. The monastery at Ettal has a pleasant inn. Arrive early at Linderhof to avoid the crowds, visit the palace and the grotto, then sit in the park and look at the fountain shooting its jet high into the air; Ludwig liked his fantasies big.