North of Neuwied, the hills of the Westerwald rise steeply from the Rhine, and through their forests ran the Roman frontier known as the Upper German-Raetian Limes. The section between the watchtowers numbered WP 1/34 and its neighbours lies near Melsbach and Rengsdorf, and it is part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage Site, inscribed in 2005 for this stretch. The Limes began on the Rhine at Rheinbrohl, a little downstream, and ran for over 500 kilometres to the Danube, a line of wooden palisades, ditches, ramparts and watchtowers.
In the forest here you can sometimes trace the line of the rampart and ditch as a low bank and hollow among the trees, and the sites of watchtowers are marked. It takes imagination to picture the frontier as it was: cleared land, a palisade of oak stakes, towers every few hundred metres with soldiers watching for signals. Neuwied had a large Roman fort at Niederbieber, one of the biggest on the Limes, and a museum in the town displays finds from it.
The Westerwald is a land of low mountains, forests, meadows and small villages, with a slightly rough, upland character. The valleys are cut by rivers, including the Wied, which flows through a narrow, wooded valley to the Rhine. The Wied valley road is a favourite with local riders, with curves, river views and little traffic.
Riding around here offers a mix of fast country roads, winding valley routes and steep climbs. The Rhine valley itself is busy, with traffic on both banks, but the roads into the hills are quieter. Watch for speed cameras and police checks, especially on weekends. Weather can be changeable, with rain and fog in the hills even when the Rhine valley is sunny.
Neuwied, five kilometres away, is the obvious fuel stop. Rengsdorf, a small spa village, has cafés and accommodation. The Westerwald is known for its stoneware pottery and its hearty food, including potato dishes and sausages. On a hot summer day the climb from the sticky Rhine valley into these cool woods feels like opening a fridge.