Two thousand years ago, the frontier of the Roman Empire in Germany began right here. The Upper Germanic-Raetian Limes, a line of watchtowers, forts, palisades and ditches stretching more than five hundred kilometres to the Danube, started on the right bank of the Rhine at Rheinbrohl, and the watchtowers numbered WP 1/1 and onwards marched away from the river into the wooded hills. This little section between Rheinbrohl and Bad Hönningen is the very beginning of the line, part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage site.
Archaeologists use the WP numbers to map every known watchtower, and they are a reminder of how systematic the Roman frontier was. Towers stood within sight of each other, linked by a path and backed by forts with garrisons. At Rheinbrohl, a museum called the RömerWelt brings the frontier to life with reconstructions, hands-on exhibits and a recreated watchtower, which is far more evocative than the faint earthworks you might find in the forest.
The riding here is Rhine valley riding: the B42 runs along the right bank between Koblenz and Bonn, past vineyards, castles and riverside villages, with the river always beside you. It is scenic, but it can be busy, and the speed limits are low in the villages. The real fun is in the side roads that climb up into the Westerwald, the wooded hills to the east, where narrow, winding roads lead through forests and small villages. A ferry crosses the Rhine to Bad Breisig, which is a pleasant way to switch banks.
The Rhine is the main presence here, wide and fast-flowing, busy with barges and cruise ships. On the slopes above, vineyards produce Riesling and other wines, and the forests are mostly beech and oak. Schloss Arenfels, a castle above Bad Hönningen, adds a romantic touch to the scene, with its towers and battlements.
Bad Hönningen and Rheinbrohl are small towns with fuel, cafés and shops. Bad Breisig, across the river, is a spa town with thermal baths. Andernach, a little further south, has a famous cold-water geyser. If you are hungry, look for a riverside restaurant serving fish or a hearty Rhineland dish like Sauerbraten.