Lima sits on the edge of one of the driest deserts on earth, and yet it is a city of more than seven million people, held together by a grey sky that locals call la garúa, a damp, low cloud that hangs over the coast for much of the year and rarely produces rain. The city's coastline rises in cliffs above the Pacific, where the districts of Miraflores and Barranco look out to the surf, and parks, cafes and paragliders occupy the clifftops.
Francisco Pizarro founded the city in 1535 as the capital of Spanish Peru, and for centuries it was the main seat of Spanish power in South America. The colonial centre, with its balconied houses, the cathedral and the Plaza de Armas, has survived earthquakes, and contrasts with the modern business districts. Food is a big reason to come: ceviche, made from raw fish cured in lime juice, is a national passion, and Lima's restaurants are among the best in Latin America.
The southbound Panamericana is where this ride begins, and it is more demanding than it looks. Leaving the city means a long run of dense traffic, buses, minibuses, trucks and mototaxis, with lane discipline that is more suggestion than rule. Beyond the suburbs the road runs through bare desert, with the ocean on one side and sand dunes on the other, pushed by strong afternoon winds. Drive defensively, particularly at night, when slow-moving vehicles can be unlit. Oncoming trucks pass on the shoulder, and speed bumps appear without warning near villages. Stay alert and keep your documents handy for police checks.
South of the city, within an easy day trip, is Pachacámac, a vast pre-Inca sanctuary with temples and pyramids made of adobe, a major pilgrimage centre long before the Incas took over. Further along the coast are Paracas, with its sea lions and desert peninsula, and Ica, a desert oasis town. Lima has fuel stations all over, workshops and every kind of accommodation. Start early, because the exit from the city is slow, and carry water. Layers help, since the coast stays cool and damp in winter.