Lillefjord is a tiny village along the road to Havøysund, its houses lined up along a small fjord on the coast of Finnmark, with the Barents Sea out beyond. The name means little fjord, and it fits. The landscape around it is stark: bare hills, smooth rock scoured by ice, and a few fishing boats on the water. People have fished here for as long as anyone can say, and the village has a quiet, self-contained air, a place that does what it does and does not need to be noticed.
What matters to a rider in this part of Norway is the road and the weather. The route to Havøysund runs a long way through the treeless north, and reindeer are the most likely cause of delay, so keep an eye out and slow right down when you see them, because they will walk across the road without warning. The surface is good, and the corners are long and unhurried. There is little traffic, and when there is, it is polite. Winter driving can be harsh, with ice, snow and darkness, and the road can close in storms, so check before you commit to the trip.
From the middle of May until late July the sun does not set, and you can ride in full daylight at midnight, which feels odd and wonderful. In autumn and winter, the northern lights dance over the village on clear nights, green and sometimes red, and the quiet is complete. The best times for riding are June and August, when the days are long and the temperature is up to ten or fifteen degrees, though wind and rain are possible at any time. Pack warm layers, rain gear and gloves, and bring more than you think you need.
The nearest pumps are at Havøysund, at the end of the road, and at Hammerfest, which is much larger and has shops, a hospital and a proper choice of food. Make sure you leave Hammerfest with a full tank and a reserve in the pannier. If you are looking for a place to eat on the way, plan ahead, as little is open outside the summer season. A picnic by the fjord, with a view of fishing boats and the evening light, is a very good meal.