Lévis sits on the south bank of the St. Lawrence, directly across the river from Quebec City, and the first thing to know is that the best view of the old capital is from here. The Château Frontenac rises on its cliff over the water, the walls of the old town spread along the ridge, and the river, narrow at this point, flows between with ferries and freighters passing. The two cities are close enough to wave at, and a small ferry, one of the oldest in the country, crosses between them in about fifteen minutes, with the skyline growing larger with each minute.
Lévis is a city of over a hundred thousand people, with the usual list of services, and the old part of the town, Vieux-Lévis, lies on the slope above the ferry dock, with narrow streets, old stone houses and a promenade along the cliff. Fort No. 1 at Pointe-de-Lévy is one of three forts built in the 1860s to protect Quebec from American attack, and is open as a historic site. In 1900, a local clerk named Alphonse Desjardins founded here the first of the credit unions that grew into the Desjardins Group, now the largest cooperative financial group in Canada.
For a rider, Lévis is a starting point. The Route des Navigateurs follows Route 132 along the south shore of the river, heading northeast toward Rivière-du-Loup, passing through a string of old villages, each with a stone church and a long main street. The riding is gentle, with long, easy curves, farmland on one side and the river on the other, and big skies that change quickly. Traffic can be heavy near the city but thins quickly. Speed limits drop in the villages and enforcement is strict.
Fuel is plentiful in Lévis, and it is wise to fill the tank before leaving, since small villages beyond have limited hours. Breakfast in the old town or on the waterfront, followed by a ride at dawn, gives the best light on the river. The tides here are strong, and the water level changes by several metres. In summer the weather is warm and humid, and thunderstorms can arrive in the afternoon. Autumn gives clear air and bright colours. Winter closes much of the region with snow and ice, and most riders stay away from December to April.