Levanto is the quiet neighbour of the Cinque Terre, close enough to use as a base and far enough to avoid the worst of the crowds. It sits at the head of a small bay on the Ligurian coast, with a long, sandy beach, which is rare in this part of Italy, and a town of arcaded streets, a medieval loggia and a Gothic church striped in black and white stone. The hills behind are steep and green with olive groves, vines and chestnut woods, and the coast on either side is a series of rocky headlands. The town is relaxed, with a mix of residents and visitors, and in summer it has the easy atmosphere of a seaside resort without the glitz.
The Cinque Terre villages, to the south, are tucked into coves and clinging to cliffs, and are linked by trains and footpaths. Cars are not welcome in most of them, and the villages themselves are mostly closed to traffic, so the sensible approach for a rider is to park in Levanto and take the train, which takes just a few minutes to the first village. Meanwhile, the roads over the hills from Levanto are good riding in their own right. A steep, twisting road climbs to the heights above the coast, with views over the sea and the terraced slopes, and the longer road inland over the Bracco pass is a classic of the Ligurian hinterland, with long bends through forest.
The riding on the coast is slow, tight and often busy. The old Aurelia road and its successors run through the hills with many bends and little room to pass. In summer, the traffic is heavy with holidaymakers, so the best times are spring and autumn, or early in the morning. Roads can be slick when wet, and rockfall and landslides are a recurring hazard after heavy rain.
Levanto has the services you need, including fuel on the approach roads, supermarkets, bakeries and many places to eat. The food is Ligurian, so expect focaccia, pesto, anchovies and fresh fish, and a glass of the local white wine is a good accompaniment. The farinata, a flat chickpea pancake baked in a wood oven, is a cheap and filling snack.
The nearest larger town is Casarza Ligure, about seventeen kilometres away, though most riders will find what they need in Levanto itself or in La Spezia, further south. There is also a good surf beach, popular with local young people, and the water is relatively clean.
Evening is the best time, when the day-trippers have gone and the old town fills with locals having an aperitivo.