Leutschach lies on the Slovenian border at the southern edge of the Styrian wine country, and the roads around it follow the steepest, wildest part of the wine road. This is a place where the hills are so steep that the vineyards are worked by hand, and the border runs along the crests, so that you can look across to the vineyards of Slovenia, which seem exactly the same. The village itself is small and attractive, with a square, a church and a few old houses, and a long tradition of winemaking and farming.
For a long time, the border region was a place of movement and change. For centuries, the area was part of the Habsburg monarchy, and the people on both sides spoke German and Slovene. After the First World War, the line was drawn between Austria and the new Yugoslavia, and from then on, the border divided families and land. Today, since Slovenia joined the European Union, the border is open, and you can cross freely, though you should carry your passport. Slovenian wine country, around Maribor, begins just beyond, and has its own old vines.
The ride here is among the best in Styria for tight twisting roads. The road climbs and falls, with sharp corners, short straights and a rough surface in places. The scenery is the main attraction, with big views over the vineyards and the forest, and the gentle light of the late afternoon turns the leaves gold. Traffic is light on weekdays, though weekends in autumn bring more visitors. Tractors and cyclists share the road, and care is needed on the blind bends.
Nature in the area is gentle. Orchards of apple and pear fill the lower slopes, and the woods are mostly oak and chestnut, with wild garlic in spring. Hares and deer graze in the fields, and in the evening, the sound of church bells carries across the valleys. The air in summer is warm and scented with hay.
Arnfels, five kilometres away, has a small castle and a few shops, and Leibnitz, about fourteen kilometres away, is the closest town with proper fuel and supermarkets. Leutschach itself has some basic services, with a few inns and taverns serving local wine and food. Plan your fuel in advance, and carry some cash.