Leskovik is a small town in the south of Albania, perched on a mountain terrace in the valley of the Vjosa's tributaries, not far from the Greek frontier. At about a thousand metres, it feels remote, and the streets are quiet and the stone houses weathered. The setting is dramatic, with forested slopes rising behind the town and the valley opening to the south toward Greece. In the evenings the sky is clear, with the Milky Way sharp above the rooftops, and the air smells of woodsmoke and mountain herbs.
Leskovik has a mixed history. In the nineteenth century it was a market and craft centre of the Ottoman period, and some of the larger old houses and the bazaar show that past. In the twentieth century the area was part of the disputed borderlands of Albania and Greece, and in the Second World War and the Cold War the region was heavily affected by conflict and isolation. The population has fallen as people moved to cities or abroad, yet the town keeps a small centre with a square, cafés and a few shops, and local people are friendly to visitors who stop.
The riding here belongs to the SH75 road between Ersekë and Përmet. From Leskovik, the road continues down the valley, passing through oak forest and open slopes, with views opening toward the Nemërçka range. Expect long, relaxed bends, some rough patches and the occasional rock or branch after storms. The road is quiet and the scenery is varied, with a lot of green in spring and warm gold in autumn. In summer the lower valley can be hot, while up here the air is much cooler.
Leskovik has only a couple of thousand people, so services are basic, though there are usually a café or two and a shop for water and snacks. For fuel, the dependable plan is to fill up in Ersekë, about twenty-two kilometres north, or in Përmet down the valley, rather than assuming a station here. If you are lucky with the timing, a bowl of beans and a coffee in the square is a fine way to take a break and watch village life go by.