Around the shores of Lake Neuchâtel, the water level once sat lower than it does now, and prehistoric farmers built villages on pilings along the edge. Les Argilliez, near Gorgier on the northwest shore, preserves traces of one of them. The wet mud at the bottom of the lake kept wood, textiles and tools in astonishing condition, which is why the pile dwellings around the Alps were inscribed by UNESCO in 2011. There is little to see above the waterline, but the idea of a village standing on stilts in these waters, with the Jura mountains behind it, is a strong one.
The shoreline here is lovely. Vineyards climb the slopes behind the lake, and the villages of Gorgier, Saint-Aubin-Sauges and Bevaix are lined with winegrowers' houses, many with cellars open for tasting. The local specialities are Chasselas, a crisp white wine, and the pale rosé known as Œil-de-Perdrix, the eye of the partridge. The Castle of Gorgier stands above the village, and the lake itself, long and calm, is often busy with sailboats from the marina.
Riding the lake road is easy and civilised. The N5 runs along the shore between Neuchâtel and Yverdon, with views of the water and the Alps on a clear day, though it can be busy with commuters. Smaller roads climb into the vineyards and the Jura foothills, with tighter bends, stone walls and farms with large, low roofs. In autumn the vines turn red and gold, and a sea of fog sometimes fills the lowlands while the hills stand clear in sunshine.
Fuel and supplies are available in Saint-Aubin-Sauges and Bevaix, and Estavayer-le-Lac, across the water, is a handsome medieval town with a castle and a lakeside promenade. Swiss prices are high, so budget accordingly. Spring is pretty, with blossom and fresh green, summer is warm enough for a swim, and winter brings grey skies and the smell of woodsmoke. A glass of local white and a cheese plate on the quay at sunset is hard to beat.