León is a hot, lively university town in the north-west of Nicaragua, and its cathedral is the most sensible reason to stop. The Basilica Cathedral of the Assumption, as it is formally known, is the largest cathedral in Central America, a vast white block that dominates the central square. Construction ran from the middle of the eighteenth century into the early nineteenth, a long project in a region where earthquakes and wars kept interfering, and the result mixes Baroque and neoclassical touches under a roof that glares in the sun.
That white roof is the best part. You can climb up to it, walk across the domes and look out over a flat city, the red tile of neighbouring roofs and, on a clear day, the chain of volcanoes that stands along the Pacific side of the country. The cathedral also holds the tomb of Rubén Darío, the poet who changed Spanish-language verse around the turn of the twentieth century and who is revered here almost like a saint. A lion statue guards the grave, which gives the whole thing a pleasant theatrical feel. The building and surrounding old centre are recognised by UNESCO.
León has always been the intellectual and often rebellious counterpart to conservative Granada, and the city carries murals and memorials from the revolution, as well as a good number of lively cafés, which exist thanks to the students. It is a good place for a cold drink and a plate of something local such as nacatamal, a heavy steamed corn parcel, or a cool fruit drink from a street stall. Beyond town you can see Cerro Negro, a young volcano that has erupted repeatedly in the last century and a half.
Riding in and out is a matter of city patience. The roads from Managua, around ninety kilometres south-east, are generally straight and fast, shared with trucks, buses and the occasional horse cart. Take care with potholes, speed bumps in villages and drivers who overtake with enthusiasm. Heat is the main challenge, so start early and drink often.
Fuel is easy in a city of this size, with several stations on the approaches. Park somewhere you can see the bike, ask a local to point out a safe spot, and give yourself at least an hour in the square and on the roof.