Leknes is the practical heart of Lofoten, a modest town with a lot to be grateful for. It sits on Vestvågøy, the flattest of the larger islands, and has the airport, the biggest supermarkets and the hospital, so everything you forgot to bring can probably be bought here. If you have ridden the long, scenic road from Svolvær, the sight of a proper grocery store is welcome.
The island has something remarkable at Borg, a few kilometres to the east: the Lofotr Viking Museum, built around the foundations of a chieftain's longhouse of the ninth and tenth centuries. The reconstruction is eighty-three metres long, among the biggest Viking buildings ever found, and a guide in costume will explain how a chief lived here, ruling the surrounding fishing communities. It is a reminder that Lofoten was a rich and powerful region long before tourists arrived. Nearby, the beaches at Haukland and Uttakleiv are broad arcs of white sand, with mountains behind and a surprisingly bright blue sea.
The riding on Vestvågøy is gentler than on the neighbouring islands. The E10 and the side roads cross low country, with bends that open to wide views of beaches, lakes and mountains. In the evening light, which is long and golden in summer, the whole island glows. Wind off the Atlantic can be strong, and sudden rain showers are common. In winter, snow and ice make the roads treacherous, and studded tyres are the norm for cars.
Fuel is easy in Leknes, a town of around three and a half thousand, and the supermarkets, bakeries and cafés make it a good place to restock. Local seafood is excellent, and the town has several restaurants. If you plan to camp, Norway's right to roam lets you pitch a tent for a night in the countryside, as long as you keep away from houses and farmland and leave no trace. The dark skies of autumn bring the northern lights, one of the great sights of the north.