Lekeitio is the kind of fishing harbour that makes you slow down whether you meant to or not. It sits on the Bay of Biscay coast of Bizkaia, behind a sheltered cove, and it has a town centre of about seven thousand people packed between the sea and a ring of green hills. The first thing you notice is the island, San Nicolás, which lies just offshore and joins the mainland by a causeway at low tide, when the beach opens up and the whole town seems to walk out over the sand.
The old part is built around the Gothic church of Santa María de la Asunción, a big, buttressed building with a tall bell tower and a finely carved interior, and the stone houses in the narrow streets behind it. The fishing fleet still operates, and the port smells of salt, diesel and grilled fish, which is the best argument for lunch. Anchovies, hake, squid and the local sea bream are the standard orders, and nobody takes offence if you linger.
The town is also known for an odd festival around the first week of September, the Day of the Geese, when a goose is hung over the harbour and young men try to grab its neck from a boat. It is a tradition that divides opinion and has been modified in recent years, but it is part of the identity of the place and gives you something to talk about.
The riding on the coast road is the best of Basque Spain in miniature: short, twisty sections that climb away from the sea through eucalyptus and pine, drop back into little harbours, and offer constant views of surf on dark rock. The surface is good, the corners are close together, and traffic is steady in summer, particularly at weekends. Rain comes without warning, and a wet road under dense trees is slippery, so keep to your own pace.
Lekeitio has fuel and plenty of places to eat, so this is one of the easiest stops on the route. Park near the harbour, and if the tide allows, walk out toward the island, then ride on with the smell of the sea still in your jacket.