Pang is a cluster of tents at about 4,500 metres, perched at the foot of a series of hairpins on the Leh-Manali Highway, and it is the last stop before the road climbs onto the high plateau. The settlement consists of a few dhabas and tent camps serving the passing traffic in summer, and it has a rough, frontier feel. A short way beyond lies the Moray Plains, a vast flat expanse at about 4,700 metres, where the road runs straight for kilometres across a gravel desert surrounded by distant mountains.
The ride on the plains is a surreal experience. After the climb up the hairpins, the road becomes a straight, level ribbon, with a surface of tarmac in fair condition and a wide view in all directions. The wind blows hard, and dust devils spin across the plain. Having crossed the Lachulung La, at over 5,000 metres, before Pang, the road goes on to the Tanglang La, at about 5,300 metres, one of the highest motorable passes in the world. The air is thin, and the bike will feel sluggish.
The landscape is a high-altitude desert, with no trees and few plants, but the colours of the rock are striking: red, ochre and grey. The Moray Plains are home to the kiang, the wild ass of the Tibetan plateau, which you may see grazing in small herds. Nomadic herders, the Changpa, bring their sheep and pashmina goats to these pastures in summer. The nights are bitterly cold, and the days are bright and dry.
Fuel is not available at Pang, so make sure you fill up in advance and carry spare. The tents offer basic food and a place to sleep, but the altitude can make the night uncomfortable. The road is open from about June to September, and a sudden snowstorm can cut it at any time. Carry warm clothing, water and food, and check the road conditions before you set off. If you feel dizzy or sick, descend to a lower altitude.