Baralacha La is a pass at about 4,850 metres, a bare, wind-blasted saddle where the road crosses between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh, and the landscape feels like the edge of the world. Near the top lies Suraj Tal, a high, round lake that reflects the sky, and the mountains around are snow-capped even in summer. Three rivers, the Chandra, the Bhaga and the Yunam, rise in this area and flow in different directions. Kyelang lies a long way back, some forty kilometres by the crow, and there is nothing else near.
The road to the pass is a long, steady climb, and the surface can be rough, with patches of gravel, potholes and water crossings from the melting snow. The air is thin, and the engine of the bike loses power, so take it gently. At this altitude, altitude sickness is a danger, with headaches, nausea and breathlessness, and it is wise to ascend slowly and carry water. The wind is bitter, and gloves and a windproof jacket are essential. The views, though, are stunning, with the lake, the glaciers and the endless ridges.
The landscape is high-altitude desert, with little vegetation apart from tufts of grass and tiny flowers. Wildlife is sparse, but you may see marmots, Himalayan snowcocks and, with luck, blue sheep on the higher slopes. Shepherds bring their flocks to the high pastures in summer, and you may meet them with their sheep and goats on the road. The nights are freezing even in July, and snow can fall in any month.
Fill up at Tandi before the climb, and carry spare fuel if you can. The road is open only from about June to October, and the pass can be blocked by snow even then. Check the road status with local sources, and be prepared for delays. A tent camp at Zing Zing Bar, on the way, offers a bed for those who need a rest.