Few places in Morocco photograph as well as Legzira. The beach lies on the Atlantic coast south of Agadir, near Sidi Ifni, where the sea has carved red sandstone cliffs into natural arches that reach into the surf. At low tide you can walk beneath them on the sand, and at sunset the rock glows deep orange against the grey-green water. One of the two arches collapsed in 2016, a reminder that the coast is always changing, but what remains is still impressive.
The ride from Agadir is a long, pleasant coastal run. The road passes through Tiznit, a walled town known for its silversmiths, then follows the shore through Mirleft, a small village popular with surfers, with dry hills on one side and the ocean on the other. The tarmac is generally good, with gentle bends and views of cliffs and empty beaches, though the wind can be strong and sea mist rolls in during the morning, especially in summer. Argan trees dot the hillsides, and goats climb among the branches to eat the fruit, a sight that surprises first-time visitors.
Sidi Ifni, about ten kilometres from the beach, has an unusual history. It was a Spanish possession until 1969, and the old town still has art deco buildings, a lighthouse and a former Spanish consulate, giving it a faded, seaside charm. The town is a quiet fishing port with a population of around twenty thousand, and local restaurants serve fresh fish, grilled with cumin and lemon, at modest prices.
Timing is important at the beach. The arch is best visited at low tide, as high water covers the sand and makes access dangerous, so check the tide tables before you go. The path down is a short walk or a steep slope, and there are simple cafés and a few guesthouses on the cliff top above. Nights on the coast can be cool and damp, and the Atlantic is cold and has strong currents, so swim with care.