Lech sits in a high bowl of the Lech valley in Vorarlberg, at around fourteen hundred and fifty metres, with grey limestone peaks of the Arlberg on every side. It is known mainly as a ski resort, one of the most exclusive in Austria, and in winter the narrow village fills with fur coats and champagne, but in summer it is quiet, green and full of cowbells. The village was settled in the fourteenth century by Walser people, German-speaking farmers from the Valais in Switzerland who moved to high valleys across the Alps, and their wooden houses and chapel give it character. The river Lech, which rises nearby and flows north into Bavaria, is one of the last wild rivers in the Alps, with gravel banks and braided channels in its lower reaches.
For riders, Lech is the end of a fine road. The Flexenpass, at around seventeen hundred and seventy metres, links the Klostertal with the Lech valley, and the road is carved into the rock on the steep slope, passing through galleries and tunnels built to protect it from avalanches. The ascent from Stuben has tight hairpins and a pleasing rhythm, and the views from the top over the Rote Wand and the green basin below are superb. The surface is good, and traffic is moderate, though weekends can bring a convoy of cars and bikes. The pass is closed in winter, usually until late spring, and sudden avalanche closures can happen even in early summer, so check conditions.
North of Lech, the road continues along the river toward Warth and the Hochtannberg Pass, with long views and gentle bends, a route that combines mountain scenery with smooth tarmac. Weather in the Arlberg is changeable, with cold air, fog and showers in the afternoon, so carry a waterproof.
Fuel in Lech itself is limited, so fill up in Bludenz or Landeck, or in the valley below, and use the village for lunch. Austrian mountain cooking, with Kässpätzle, cheese dumplings in a pan with fried onions, is the thing to order. The best months are late June to September.