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Leakey

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A town of about four hundred people is hardly the likely centre of anything, but Leakey is where Texas motorcyclists come to get their kicks. It sits on the Frio River in the Hill Country, in the little county of Real, among limestone bluffs, bald cypress and live oaks, and it is the base for the roads known as the Twisted Sisters, three ranch roads numbered 335, 336 and 337 that tangle through the hills west of the highway. They are among the most famous motorcycle roads in the state.

The roads climb and fall through the rocky hills and canyons in a long series of tight bends, short straights and steep crests, with views over the Nueces and Frio valleys. The surface can be rough in places, with cattle guards, low-water crossings and loose gravel, and wildlife is a real hazard, since deer, goats and cattle wander onto the road. Weekends bring crowds of riders, and law enforcement is active, so speed limits are worth respecting. Spring, when the hills are covered in bluebonnets and other wildflowers, is the best season, and autumn is also good. Summer is hot, but the clear river water is a good place to cool off.

The Frio is a spring-fed stream with water so clear you can see the pebbles, and swimming at the river parks is a Texas tradition. Garner State Park, a short ride south, is known for its summer dances at the pavilion, where a jukebox has played for generations. To the north, Lost Maples State Natural Area is known for the bigtooth maples that turn red in November, a rare sight in Texas.

Leakey is small, and fuel may be limited, so fill up in a larger town such as Kerrville or Uvalde, each about an hour away. A few cafes and general stores serve burgers and pie, and motels and cabins book out early on busy weekends. Carry water in the heat, and stay alert on blind crests.

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