Le Trayas is the point where the Var gives way to the Alpes-Maritimes on the Corniche d'Or, and for a hamlet with very few buildings it carries a lot of weight in the memory of anyone who has ridden here. The little station on the coastal railway, the scatter of villas on the slopes and the tiny harbour bring a sleepy feel, and the main event is the scenery: red porphyry cliffs, dark green forest and a sea that shifts between turquoise and deep blue as the clouds move.
The Corniche d'Or is a road you ride with half your attention on the water. From Théoule-sur-Mer, the route climbs and falls along the side of the Esterel, passing viewpoints and little beaches, with plenty of curves to keep it lively. The pace is leisurely. In summer, the traffic can be heavy, and on weekends the lay-bys fill with cars and bicycles. Best to come in spring or autumn, or leave very early in the morning. In winter, the coast is quiet and the light is crisp, though some small cafés close.
Behind Le Trayas, the Esterel massif stretches inland, and its highest point, Mont Vinaigre, reaches just over six hundred metres. The hills are scented with cistus, rosemary and myrtle, and the contrast between red rock and green scrub is the signature look of this part of the Riviera. Wildfires have shaped the landscape, and in the hottest months the authorities often restrict access to parts of the forest, so respect any closures and never throw a cigarette from the saddle.
To the east lies Théoule-sur-Mer, where a small fortified castle on the shore, the Château de la Napoule, was restored in the twentieth century by an American sculptor, Henry Clews, and now hosts exhibitions. The town of Mandelieu-la-Napoule, about seven kilometres from Le Trayas, is the best bet for fuel, shopping and restaurants. Cannes lies beyond. A coffee at one of the small seaside cafés and a moment watching the water, with the red rock behind you, is a good reason to slow down. Bring a layer in case the sea breeze turns cool in the evening.