From the shore of Lake Geneva the vineyards of Lavaux climb almost vertically, terrace upon terrace, held up by stone walls, to villages perched on the slopes above. Monks from Cistercian abbeys began shaping these hillsides in the Middle Ages, and generations of winegrowers have rebuilt the walls ever since, carrying soil back up when rain washes it down. The result is one of the most striking wine landscapes in the world, stretching about thirty kilometres between Lausanne and Montreux, and listed by UNESCO in 2007. Locals like to say that the vines here enjoy three suns: the one in the sky, its reflection off the lake and the warmth stored in the stone walls.
The grape of Lavaux is Chasselas, a delicate white that expresses the soil and slope in subtle ways, and the small appellations, Dézaley, Epesses, Saint-Saphorin, Calamin, each have devoted followers. Village cellars open their doors for tastings, especially at weekends, and a glass on a terrace overlooking the water with the Savoy Alps opposite is a fine thing.
Cully, a lakeside village with a small harbour, hosts a well-known jazz festival in spring, and Chexbres, up on the slope, has a terrace with views across the lake.
The riding is short but spectacular. The Route de la Corniche runs along the middle of the slopes between Lutry and Chexbres, narrow and winding, with stone walls on both sides and views that make concentration difficult. It is busy with cyclists, walkers, small tractors and the occasional tourist train, so ride gently and expect to stop often. The lakeside road below is faster but less interesting. Above Lavaux, roads climb into the hills of the Jorat and towards Fribourg through farmland and woods, with little traffic.
Switzerland has strict speed limits and very high fines, with cameras everywhere, so keep to the limits. A vignette is required for motorways. The weather is mild, with warm summers and mild winters, though fog can lie on the lake in autumn and winter.
Lutry, about five kilometres away, has fuel and shops, and Lausanne and Vevey offer more. Try filets de perche, perch fillets from the lake, with chips and a glass of Chasselas, or a plate of local cheese and dried meat in a village pinte.