Los Vélez, in the north of Almería, is wool and almond country, and its history is one of shepherds, noblemen and Moriscos. For centuries flocks of sheep moved between the winter grazing of the lowlands and the summer pastures of the high sierras along old drove roads, and the area had a thriving wool trade. The shelter here, one of a group around Vélez-Blanco, carries prehistoric paintings, belonging to the Levantine art tradition that UNESCO recognises.
The town of Vélez-Blanco was the seat of the Fajardo family, the Marquises of Los Vélez, among the most powerful families in southeastern Spain in the sixteenth century. They built the castle that dominates the town, and they were involved in the suppression of the Morisco rebellion in the 1560s, a bitter war that ended the open practice of Islam in the region. The surrounding hills hold the ruins of Moorish farms and irrigation channels, and the layout of fields and terraces still reflects those older ways of managing scarce water.
Riding here is quiet and open. The roads cross high plains and climb gently into the sierra, with long straights, then switchbacks, and the surfaces are generally good. Traffic is minimal, and you may share the road with shepherds, dogs and the occasional herd of goats. In summer the sun is merciless, so start early and carry water, and in winter be alert for ice. Spring brings a green flush and almond blossom in the lower valleys, while October has warm days and cool nights.
Fuel is a problem in this district. Try the local stews and the almond pastries of the region, and a glass of wine from the high vineyards. If you walk to the shelter, keep to paths, wear a hat, and remember that access may cross private farmland.