The Vale do Ribeira is one of the least developed regions of São Paulo state, a long valley of banana plantations, tea fields, small towns and thick forest, with a river that runs unimpeded to the sea. Because it was never heavily built up, it holds the largest remaining block of Atlantic Forest in Brazil, and the state parks of the area, among them Lauráceas, protect it. The name refers to the laurel family, which includes trees such as canelas and sassafras that grow tall in the damp forest, and which give the park its scent of spice when the wind moves the leaves.
Registro, a town of about forty-five thousand, is the main centre of the valley, and it has a story that surprises visitors. It was settled by Japanese immigrants in the early twentieth century, who established tea plantations and rice fields, and their descendants still hold festivals, with taiko drums, food stalls and a Japanese garden. Capão Bonito, to the north, is the other gateway, and both have fuel and services.
The park itself is a place for walkers and wildlife, and access is limited, so ask at the local office about permission and conditions. The roads in the valley are a mix of paved main routes and dirt tracks, with heavy rains turning them to mud for days, and fuel is harder to find in the villages than on the main roads. The famous BR-116, the Régis Bittencourt highway, runs through here, linking São Paulo and Curitiba, and is known for its curves, heavy lorries and fog on the Serra do Cafezal, so take extra care and avoid it at night.
Quilombo communities, descended from escaped slaves, still live in the valley, farming and preserving their traditions, and some offer visits and meals. Try palm heart, fish from the river and banana sweets, and ask politely before photographing people. The cooler months from May to September are comfortable, and summers are hot, humid and thunderous. Bring rain gear in any season, because the forest makes its own weather.