Lauenburg is the gate of the Elbe, the last town in Schleswig-Holstein before the river runs on into Lower Saxony and Hamburg, and it clings to a steep bank above the water in a way that gives its old town an unusual shape. The main street, the Elbstraße, runs along the shore below the cliff, lined with old half-timbered houses, and the upper town sits on the ridge above, linked by steps and winding lanes. A castle tower still rises over the roofs.
The river has made the town and, more than once, flooded it. The Elbe was for centuries the great trade road of northern Germany, carrying salt from Lüneburg and timber and grain downstream, and Lauenburg grew up as a customs and shipping point. A museum on the quay tells the story of the river boats, including the old sailing barges and steamers, and the quay itself is a fine place for a stroll. The floods of 2013 reached extraordinary heights, and marks on the buildings show how high the water rose.
The river runs through a broad green valley here, with meadows, reeds and old willows, and across the water the land of Lower Saxony stretches away. The Elbe cycle route follows the bank, so cyclists are a common sight, and the road along the river is calm, with a good surface and light traffic. Birds are plentiful: storks nest in the villages, and cranes and geese pass through in autumn.
Lauenburg has nearly twelve thousand people, so fuel is easy to find, with stations on the main road, and supermarkets and cafes in the centre. As the start of a ride it is a practical place to fill up and eat, with Hamburg about forty-five kilometres to the west and the Wendland country to the south-east, a region of quiet forests and round villages.
Spring, when the river is high with meltwater and the meadows are bright, and early autumn, when the light is soft and the birds are moving, are the best seasons. A morning start gives mist on the river and quiet roads.