Latacunga lies at about 2,750 metres in the high Andean valley that the explorer Alexander von Humboldt called the Avenue of the Volcanoes, and the name is hardly an exaggeration. On a clear morning the snowy cone of Cotopaxi, nearly 5,900 metres high, hangs above the plain to the east, with Iliniza and other peaks to the west. The town has a slightly worn, dignified look, with many buildings made from pale volcanic stone and plazas shaded by old trees.
Volcanoes have shaped the place in more ways than the scenery. Cotopaxi's eruptions have damaged Latacunga several times, and the town was rebuilt using the volcanic stone, which is why it looks the way it does. Local culture mixes Indigenous traditions with Spanish colonial heritage. The Mama Negra festival in the autumn is a riot of music, costumes and processions, and it brings the whole community into the streets. The Saturday market in nearby Saquisilí is famous for its colour and its trade in everything from livestock to herbs.
From Latacunga the riding is excellent. The Pan-American Highway runs north and south in the valley, with views of volcanoes at every turn. Westward, the Quilotoa loop climbs into the highlands past villages and to a spectacular crater lake. At altitude, the air is thin and cold, so expect your bike to feel slightly flat and nights to be chilly. Rain and cloud often hide the peaks in the afternoon, so go early.
Latacunga is a sizeable town and has fuel stations on the main road, plenty of cafes, markets and guesthouses. Pujilí, nine kilometres to the west, is smaller but has fuel and a lively Sunday market. Try chugchucaras, a rich dish of fried pork, corn and plantain that Latacunga is known for, and bring warm layers and sun protection, since the sun is strong at altitude.