Las Cuevas is a tiny border village at the top of the Argentine side of the Andes, at about 3,200 metres, and it stands at the mouth of the tunnel that carries traffic under the pass to Chile. It is a collection of low buildings, customs offices and a few shops huddled in a high, windswept valley, with steep slopes of loose rock rising on every side and snow lying well into summer. In winter, the village is often cut off by storms and avalanches, and the road is closed for days at a time, so it can feel like the edge of the world.
The ride up from Uspallata is a magnificent climb on Ruta 7, passing Puente del Inca and the foot of Aconcagua before reaching the village. The surface is mostly paved, with steep sections and sharp bends, and trucks fill the road. Altitude affects both rider and machine, and the air is thin and cold. Check the weather and the road status before you set off, since closures are common in bad conditions. The best time is summer, from December to March, with clear skies and long days.
From Las Cuevas, an old road climbs to the Cristo Redentor of the Andes, a bronze statue placed on the border in 1904 to celebrate a peace agreement between Argentina and Chile. The old pass, at about 3,800 metres, is reached by a steep and rough gravel track with many hairpins, and it is only open in good conditions, so ask before you go. The statue stands in the open, with the wind howling and the mountains stretching in every direction, and it is one of the finest viewpoints on the continent.
There is little to buy in the village, just a few simple places for hot drinks and snacks, so fill the tank in Uspallata and carry food and water. Wear warm clothing, since the temperature falls fast, and take time to adjust to the altitude. Customs formalities, if you are crossing, can take time, particularly in summer, and queues of trucks are common. The memory of the crossing, with the tunnel mouth opening onto Chile, is likely to stay with you.