Nerpio sits at the edge of the world, or at least at the edge of Albacete province, a small village in the Sierra de Taibilla close to where Murcia, Granada and Jaén come together. Its walnuts are famous, grown in old orchards along the river, and the hills around it hold some of the finest Levantine rock art in Spain. Las Cabritas, the little goats, is a shelter just over a kilometre from the village, named after the animals painted on its walls, and it is part of the World Heritage Site of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin.
The paintings around Nerpio include hunting scenes, animals and human figures, some remarkably detailed. The Solana de las Covachas, Cañaica del Calar and other sites are reached on foot, and guided visits are organised from the village. The rides that pass here include a figure known locally as the Mother Goddess, a reminder that the meaning of these images is still debated.
The landscape is wild and beautiful: limestone mountains, pine forests, deep valleys and the Taibilla river, which supplies water to much of Murcia through a famous canal system. The air is clean, the nights are dark and full of stars, and the silence is deep. In autumn, the walnut harvest brings the village to life.
Riding here means remote roads, many curves and very little traffic. The roads from Moratalla, Yeste and Letur are all scenic, with climbs, descents and views. Surfaces are variable, and some roads are narrow and twisty. Watch for animals, especially deer, wild boar and livestock. In winter, snow can close some roads.
Nerpio has a few shops and bars, but for reliable fuel you may need Moratalla, thirty-eight kilometres away, or Yeste, so arrive with a healthy tank. Lamb, game and walnut cakes appear on the menus, and the bars serve generous tapas with drinks. Spending a night in Nerpio, with a walk to the rock art in the morning, is the best way to appreciate this remote corner of Spain.