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Larochette

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Larochette sits in a narrow, wooded valley in the middle of Luxembourg, under a huge sandstone crag with a ruined castle perched on top. The Luxembourgish name is Fiels, meaning rock, and the rock is the point. The castle was built in the Middle Ages and developed over the centuries by local lords, then abandoned in the sixteenth century and left to the ivy, and its walls still stand, with a few towers and halls open to visitors. The town below is small and pleasant, with a main square, old houses along the White Ernz stream, cafes and a long history of textile making.

The surrounding area is called Little Switzerland, a name given by 19th-century visitors who thought the sandstone gorges and forests resembled the Alps, though the scale is much smaller. The rock is soft, pale sandstone, shaped by water and weather into canyons, caves, towers and narrow passages, and covered in beech forest. It is a wonderful place for walking, and the long-distance Mullerthal Trail passes through the area. From the castle, the view across the roofs and the forest is a pleasant one.

For riders, the roads around Larochette are a treat, a web of narrow, twisting lanes through woods and valleys, with good surfaces and light traffic outside holidays. The bends are smooth, the gradients gentle and the scenery changes around every corner, with sandstone cliffs, meadows and half-timbered villages. Luxembourg is small, so everything is close, and the whole region can be explored in a day. Speed limits are enforced, and cameras are not uncommon, so keep an eye on the signs. In autumn, the leaves turn the forest red and gold, which is the best time to visit, but spring is lovely too.

The town has restaurants and cafes serving local dishes such as judd mat gaardebounen, smoked pork collar with broad beans, and Luxembourg sausages, along with regional beers and Moselle wines. It is a good lunch stop, and in summer the terraces are full. For fuel, remember that Luxembourg has lower fuel taxes than its neighbours, so petrol is cheaper than in Germany, France or Belgium, and it is worth filling the tank. The bigger town of Diekirch, about ten kilometres away, has stations and supermarkets, and there are others on the main roads.

Parking in the village is easy, and the castle is a short walk from the centre. Visit on a weekday if you can, since weekends in summer bring day-trippers from across the border.

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