Laragh is a small village in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains, at the junction of several valleys, and a natural place to stop for a meal. It sits a short distance from Glendalough, the Glen of the Two Lakes, where Saint Kevin founded a monastery in the sixth century. The remains are still there: a tall round tower, about thirty metres high, a roofless cathedral, small stone churches and a graveyard of Celtic crosses, all set beside dark lakes under steep, wooded slopes. For centuries, it was one of the great pilgrimage sites of Ireland, and in good weather it is still a gentle and moving place to walk.
For food, Laragh has a handful of pubs and cafés, and the habit of the place is to eat hearty. Expect a bowl of soup, brown bread, a toasted sandwich and a pot of tea, or something heavier with a pint. In summer, tables fill early and the car park overflows, so aim for a weekday and a mid-morning arrival. In winter, the place is quiet and the fires are lit.
The riding around Laragh is some of the best in eastern Ireland. The Wicklow Gap road climbs west from the valley to a high, bare saddle at roughly 480 metres, where heather moor, bog and grey rock stretch away on either side, and the bends are open and flowing. To the north, the Military Road, built by the British after the 1798 rebellion to flush out rebels hiding in the hills, runs along the high moorland past Sally Gap, with long straights, big views and sheep wandering across the tarmac. The surface can be rough in places, with frost damage and gravel, and the weather is wet and changeable, with low cloud and sudden showers. Fog can close in quickly on the high ground. Traffic is heavy on summer weekends and calm during the week.
The mountains are the largest upland area in Ireland, a granite massif with peat bogs, deer, and a national park. The smell of turf smoke and wet heather is part of the experience.
For fuel, do not rely on Laragh. Rathdrum, about ten kilometres away, and Wicklow town, a bit farther, have petrol stations, and it is safest to fill up there before heading into the hills. Eat well, wear a waterproof, and go up the gap in the afternoon light.