Dauria is the great steppe that straddles the border between Russia's Zabaykalsky region and northeastern Mongolia, and it is one of the last places on earth where you can see a grassland ecosystem working on its own terms. UNESCO listed the landscapes of Dauria in 2017 as a joint Russian and Mongolian site, recognising the importance of its steppe, wetlands and wildlife. The scale is vast: rolling grasslands stretching to the horizon, dotted with lakes, under a sky that seems to go on forever.
The most remarkable thing about Dauria is its cycles. The Torey lakes and other lakes of the region fill and dry out over a period of about thirty years, driven by long-term climate rhythms, and the whole ecosystem adapts to these changes, with plants, birds and animals moving in response. Wetlands that are full of birds in one decade may be dry salt flats in another. Mongolian gazelles, the dzeren, migrate across the steppe in herds of thousands, and the area is a vital stopover for migrating birds, including rare cranes such as the white-naped crane and the hooded crane, as well as swan geese and bustards.
Riding here is an expedition, not a day trip. There are few paved roads, and those that exist are long and straight, connecting distant towns across the steppe. Most routes are dirt tracks, often unmarked, that can turn to mud after rain or become dusty and corrugated in dry weather. Fuel stations are very far apart, and towns are small. On the Russian side, Borzya and the villages near the Daursky reserve are the main settlements; on the Mongolian side, distances are even greater. Navigation, spare fuel and water, and self-sufficiency are essential, as is a vehicle suited to rough terrain.
The border itself is a serious matter: crossing points are few, and the frontier zone is controlled, with permits sometimes needed. Weather is extreme, with hot summers, bitterly cold winters, and strong winds at any time. Spring and autumn bring the bird migrations, and early summer the green flush of the steppe and wildflowers. For anyone who loves open spaces and wildlife, Dauria is unforgettable, but it requires careful planning and respect for its remoteness.