Veurne's market square is one of the most complete in Flanders, and the old Landhuis, with its belfry rising behind it, is the reason. The Landhuis was the seat of the castellany, the regional administration that governed the surrounding countryside, and its belfry is part of the group of Belgian and French belfries protected by UNESCO. Around the square stand the town hall, the old meat hall and a row of gabled houses, many dating back to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, when Veurne was under Spanish rule, which explains the stepped gables and ornate facades.
The town is famous for its Penitents' Procession, held on the last Sunday of July, when hooded figures carry crosses through the streets in a tradition that goes back centuries. It is a strange and moving spectacle, and the town fills with visitors for the day. Veurne also played an important role in the First World War, when it was close to the front line along the Yser river and served as a base for the Belgian army and for King Albert I, whose forces held the last unoccupied corner of the country.
The riding around Veurne is flat and open, through the polders of the Westhoek, the low-lying land reclaimed from the sea and crossed by canals and drainage ditches. The roads are straight and well surfaced, with little traffic outside the towns, but the wind can be a real challenge, blowing hard off the North Sea and across the fields with nothing to stop it. Cyclists are everywhere, and cycling is taken seriously in Flanders, so give them space and respect.
The coast is just a few kilometres away, with the resorts of Koksijde, Oostduinkerke and De Panne offering beaches, dunes and seafood restaurants. Oostduinkerke is known for its shrimp fishermen, who ride heavy horses into the surf to drag nets, a tradition recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage. Veurne itself, with about twelve thousand residents, has fuel, shops and plenty of cafes around the square, perfect for a coffee or a local beer. The Westhoek is also home to several abbey breweries, and the beers from the area are among the most celebrated in the world.