Lake Yamanaka is the largest of the Fuji Five Lakes and the one closest to Tokyo, a broad sheet of water lying at around 980 metres on the north side of Mount Fuji's lower slopes. On a calm morning the mountain reflects in it, and the view of the cone, with its snow cap in winter and spring, is one of the great scenes of Japan. Wind often blows across the lake in the afternoon, so windsurfers and sailors use it, and the water can be choppy.
The area has grown into a holiday district, with campsites, holiday homes and a scattering of hotels around the shore, and it can be crowded in summer. On weekdays and out of season, however, it is quiet, and the walk along the shore at dusk is lovely. The temperature here is lower than at sea level, with cool nights even in August, and in winter the lake can freeze at the edges. It is worth stopping for a photograph, even if the mountain is hiding behind a cloud.
Fujiyoshida, eight kilometres to the north, has about forty-nine thousand people and the kind of services riders need, including fuel, supermarkets and restaurants. It is known for its Yoshida udon, a thick, firm noodle served with cabbage and a rich sauce, and for the Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen shrine, which stands at the old start of the pilgrim path up Fuji. Many centuries of pilgrims, dressed in white, made the climb from here, and the old inns along the street recall that time. Gotemba, to the south, is a larger alternative.
For riders, the road around the lake is easy and pleasant, with gentle bends and good surfaces, and the route over the Mount Fuji foothills toward Hakone or Doshi is among the best in the Kanto region. Check the weather before setting out, because clouds can arrive fast. Autumn colours are best in late October and November, and the air is crisp and clear. Fuji is most likely to be visible in the early morning, so an early start is rewarded.