Lake Turkana is known as the Jade Sea, and when the light is right the name is obvious: a long, narrow expanse of green-blue water lying across the desert, with black volcanic hills on one side and pale sand on the other. It is the largest permanent desert lake in the world and the biggest alkaline lake. The Omo River in Ethiopia supplies most of its water, and what flows in has nowhere to leave except by evaporation, so the lake is salty. Upstream dams on the Omo have raised concerns about how the water level will behave in the future, a worry that fishing families here follow closely.
The three national parks, Sibiloi, Central Island and South Island, were listed by UNESCO in 1997 as Lake Turkana National Parks. The listing recognises the fossil beds, the breeding of Nile crocodiles, the wintering birds and the geology of the rift. For a motorcycle traveller, it is more of a general destination than a single spot, and the real subject of the ride is the country around it: a hard, spectacular wilderness that takes planning and time.
The roads in northern Kenya are not for casual riding. The approach from the south runs through Isiolo, Marsabit and across the lava fields, some paved, much of it gravel, sometimes with sand and washouts. Distances between towns are great. Wind is the constant companion. Most riders go in groups with a support vehicle, carry water and fuel in bulk, and check the security situation before each leg.
The lake supports fishing communities that catch Nile perch and tilapia, and dried fish is traded on the road south. Turkana homes are domed huts of sticks and hides, and their herds of camels and goats are the economy. Be respectful when you arrive somewhere and ask before taking photos of people.
Sunrise and sunset are the best moments, when the water takes on a metallic shine and the hills turn red. During the middle of the day the heat is close to unbearable, and the lake looks flat and white. Plan your riding for the early hours, rest in the shade, and carry plenty of water. The dry months from June to October are best.