Lake Iseo is the quiet one among the big Lombard lakes, and the western shore, where this pause sits, shows why. The road runs close to the water between cliffs and small villages, with Monte Isola, Europe's largest lake island, rising green in the middle of the lake. Fishing boats and ferries cross to its villages, and in summer the sound of engines drifts over the water. The surroundings are less polished than Lake Como, with working harbours and unfussy cafés, and many riders find that a relief.
The lake has had its moments of fame. In 2016 the artist Christo laid a walkway of floating yellow pontoons across the water from the shore to the island, and hundreds of thousands of people walked on the lake in a couple of weeks. Today the pontoons are gone, but the memory remains, and locals still talk about it. South of the lake is Franciacorta, a wine area known for its sparkling wines made in the traditional method, with neat vineyards and cellars that welcome visitors.
The riding on the western shore is dramatic but demanding. The road is narrow and winding, with many tunnels cut through the rock, and the surface can be rough at the edges. Lorries and buses use it, so keep to your side and take care in the dark tunnels, where sunglasses should come off before you enter. In summer the traffic grows slow, and the best time is early morning or late evening, when the road is calmer and the light on the water is soft. In winter, the shaded sections can be damp and cold.
The villages along this stretch, such as Tavernola Bergamasca and Predore, have small harbours with benches and cafés where you can stop for a drink or a swim from the stony shore. The water is clean, and in summer it is warm enough for a quick dip. Local menus often feature lake fish such as sardines dried or grilled, along with polenta and cheeses from the valleys.
Fuel is available in Iseo, about five kilometres away, a town of five thousand people at the southern end of the lake, and in Sarnico at the other end. The smaller villages have limited services. Parking for bikes is easy at the harbours, though it can fill up on summer weekends.
The wind on the lake, called the Ora in the afternoon, can freshen the air and ruffle the surface, and it is a pleasant counterpoint to the heat.