Lake Elementaita is the smallest and quietest of the three soda lakes, a shallow stretch of pale water in the Rift Valley that looks, in the right light, like a sheet of beaten silver. The name comes from a Maasai word, muteita, which means a place of dust, and the dry, windy shore bears it out. Behind the lake rises a ridge called the Sleeping Warrior, whose outline resembles a man lying on his back, and local people tell the tale of the sleeping giant with a straight face.
The lake is a haven for birds. Flocks of lesser flamingos come and go with the algae, and great white pelicans nest on the rocky islets, in one of the main breeding places in the region. The land around it, the Soysambu Conservancy, was once part of the huge estate of Lord Delamere, an early British settler who became a leading figure of the colony, and it is now a wildlife area where zebra, giraffe and impala graze among the thorn trees. Hot springs seep along the shore, and in places the water steams.
On a motorbike, the ride to Elementaita is mostly a matter of the highway. From Nairobi you climb to the escarpment, with its great view over the rift, and then follow the A104 north-west through Naivasha and Gilgil, passing fields of flowers and vegetables and small trading towns. Trucks are heavy, and the road is narrow, so take care overtaking. Winds in the afternoon can be strong, and rain, when it comes, is heavy.
Nakuru, twenty-four kilometres away, has fuel, banks and plenty of food, and Gilgil, nearer, has small stations. Carry water and sunscreen, since shade is scarce. If you have time, the lakeshore lodges allow a walk at the water's edge, and a cold drink on a terrace with pelicans in view is a good way to end a day on the road. Dust and wind are part of the experience, so protect the camera.