At the eastern end of a long, deep lake in the mountains of southern Vancouver Island, the small town of Lake Cowichan marks the point where the Cowichan River begins its run to the sea at Cowichan Bay. The lake stretches about thirty kilometres west into the hills, surrounded by forest and logged slopes, and the river flowing out of it is famous for its steelhead and trout fishing and, on hot summer days, for tubing, as hundreds of people float lazily downstream from town.
The town of almost three thousand people grew up around logging, and the industry still shapes the landscape and the economy. The Kaatza Station Museum, in the old railway station, tells the story of the loggers, the railway and the early settlers who came to this isolated valley. Around the lake, you see the patchwork of clearcuts and replanted forest that marks a century of timber harvesting, and logging trucks are still a common sight on the roads.
For riders on the Pacific Marine Circle Route, Lake Cowichan is the welcome return to civilisation after the long, winding Pacific Marine Road from Port Renfrew. That road, which was a gravel logging road until it was paved, runs through remote forest with tight bends, steep grades and occasional rough patches, and it has few services along the way. Lake Cowichan has fuel, groceries, a few cafes and places to stay, and it is a good spot for a break before heading east on Highway 18 toward Duncan and the main island highway, a fast and easy road through farmland and forest.
The lake itself is a fine place to stop. There are parks along the shore with beaches and picnic areas, and the water is warm enough for swimming in summer. The roads around the lake, on both the north and south shores, are narrow and quiet, with views over the water and the mountains.
Ladysmith and Duncan, both about twenty-five kilometres away, are the nearest larger towns. Summers are warm and dry, sometimes hot, and the valley can be one of the warmest places on the island. Winter brings heavy rain and occasional snow, and fog often lingers in the morning. Watch for deer and elk, especially at dawn and dusk.