Lake Chungará lies at about 4,500 metres on the Chilean Altiplano, close to the Bolivian border, and it is one of the highest lakes in the world. The water is deep blue, the shore is fringed with pale grass and the sky seems very close. Behind it rise the twin volcanoes of Parinacota and Pomerape, both over six thousand metres, their cones white against the dark blue, and the sight of Parinacota reflected in the still water of the lake is one of the best-known images in the Andes.
The lake was formed when a huge landslide from the volcano dammed a river valley thousands of years ago, creating a natural reservoir that now shelters a rich variety of birds. Flamingos, giant coots, Andean geese and many other species gather on the shore, while vicuñas graze on the slopes and the occasional fox moves through the grass. The protected area around it, Lauca National Park, is a biosphere reserve and a haven for wildlife, and you can often watch animals from the road without leaving your bike.
The ride from Putre is a short, high-altitude climb on a paved road that runs across the plateau, with wide bends and a long, gentle slope. At this height, the air holds about half the oxygen it does at sea level, and engines lose a great deal of power, so expect your bike to feel sluggish. Riders may notice headaches or breathlessness, so go slowly and avoid heavy exertion. The weather changes fast, with strong sun and then sudden storms, and afternoon thunder is common in summer, bringing hail and cold rain. Mornings are clear and cold, with frost on the grass.
Fill the tank in Arica or Putre and carry warm layers, a windproof jacket and water. Nights fall far below freezing, so do not plan to stay unless you are prepared. Take a moment at the viewpoint, breathe slowly, and look at the mountain in the water. In the thin, clear air, even a short stop feels like an event, and the silence is so complete that you can hear the wind move through the grass.