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CURVESCOUT / PLACE TO SEE

Lake Bracciano

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Cave is a hill town in the countryside south-east of Rome, at the foot of the Prenestini mountains, and the ride that ends here has come a long way round from Lake Bracciano to the north-west of the capital. The town has about 8,000 people, and it is a working place of old stone houses, cafés, bakeries and shops, with a church and a small square at its centre. Fuel and supplies are easy to find, and the local bars serve strong coffee early in the morning.

The country around is volcanic and fertile, with vineyards, olive groves and chestnut woods covering the slopes, and a number of old hill towns perched on spurs of rock. Palestrina, a few kilometres to the north-east, was the site of a vast Roman sanctuary of Fortuna, whose terraces climb the hillside, and its ruins are some of the most impressive in Italy. Genazzano, a little further, holds a castle and a pilgrimage church. Wine lovers know the region for Cesanese, a red grape that makes a rustic and fragrant wine.

For a rider, the pleasure is in the small roads. Lanes wind between stone walls and vines, climb to villages, and drop again through woods, and the corners are tight enough to be fun without ever being dangerous. Surfaces vary, with patches of rough asphalt, and locals drive fast, so keep to your side on blind bends. Rome is about thirty-five kilometres to the west, and the road back is busy at rush hour.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when the air is clear and the colours are warm. In summer the heat is strong, and in winter the hills can be misty and cold. At the end of a long ride, a plate of pasta and a glass of local wine in a village trattoria is a very good way to say goodnight.

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