Lake Bogoria lies at the bottom of the Rift Valley in central Kenya, a long, narrow, alkaline lake squeezed between a steep fault wall on the west and a flat, thorny plain on the east. Its water is so salty and caustic that fish cannot live in it, but blue-green algae thrive, and the algae feed one of the great wildlife spectacles of Africa: lesser flamingos in the hundreds of thousands, which line the shore and turn the margins pink. The numbers shift with the water level, and in some years they move to other lakes. Bogoria, Nakuru and Elmenteita make up the Kenya Lake System, listed by UNESCO in 2011.
The riding to get here is a pleasure. From Nakuru the road runs north along the rift floor through Mogotio and then to Marigat, passing from highland green into dry bush, with euphorbia and acacia on the slopes and the escarpment standing up beside you. Tarmac is good as far as the junction, but the road into the reserve is rougher and can be loose. Heat in the middle of the day is fierce, and the dust devils that spin up on the plain are a real thing. Early morning and late afternoon are better for the light, and also for the animals.
What sets Bogoria apart is its geothermal activity. Along the western shore, hot springs and small geysers burst out of the ground at the water's edge, steaming and boiling and sometimes hot enough to scald. Local people cook eggs in them. Stay on the paths and keep children close. The hills above hold greater kudu, a tall antelope with spiralled horns that is easy to miss, and troops of baboons look over the road. Buffalo, leopard and hyena exist, but rarely show themselves.
Practicalities matter. Baringo, the nearest small town, is about twenty-seven kilometres away, and Nyahururu has more services if you head toward the highlands. Fuel is available in Marigat and Nakuru, but keep a margin, because small stations can run out. The park charges an entry fee at the gate. Carry water, sun protection and a spare tube. The dry season, from January to March and again June to October, is the easiest time.